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I think this topic has run its course for just about everybody, unless others have any more pathway questions, I don't see if there is really anything else to add.

My questions I'd like to ask first though:

1. So between opening day and what year was the time they primarily used asphalt? Just to give me an idea when the park decided to make the switch.

2. When the park made the switch, did they tear out all the pathways and pour the aggregate all at once, was it done in phases or did they just pour the aggregate on top of the asphalt?

3. What was the driving force behind this switch that made the park decide to change its ways? Other than a more appealing look, was there other things that factored in? An example mentioned earlier was up keep was cheaper and/or easier, I think. Was this all to the decision?

4. More older pics please Nora!

5. What do the members of this forum prefer, detailed stamped concrete themed to each hamlet, all aggregate, all asphalt, or a mix of everything everywhere?

6. That is all for now.
 
Small rocks Alpenghöst. heh~


Party Rocker.. I have no idea; so I will speculate from my time working with a General Contractor.

The park had asphalt for a very short time.. very short. It was around the early 80s when aggregate started replacing the asphalt. It was bit by bit at a time. I recall when Italy opened that was all aggregate.

As to why- I would assume that

1) It looked better and resembled more the the look that the Colonial Parkway has.
2) It is easier to repair and replace than asphalt.

I would also say that the asphalt was removed at one point because when there was a replacement, you could see dirt underneath. But don't quote me on this.

What you need to do if find someone who works in maintenance that has been there since the park opening and ask them. With me, I was only about four at the time. I have a good memory, but exact dates- get a wee bit fuzzy.

Hope that helps.
 
A little insight form a former concrete pourer:

1) Concrete of all kinds is "jointed" because it is expected, eventually, to crack. The "panels" you guys are talking about are standard for exposed aggregate concrete for repair/replace purposes, but also just because a solid slab without those joints would crack up in all kinds of unsightly places.

2) Stamped concrete is decoratively the most appealing. It can be stained in the mixing or finishing process, as well, to resemble natural stone. Stamped concrete is also more expensive than either exposed aggregate, finished concrete, or asphalt paving. As a little easter egg, unless the pattern is square, concrete is usually stamped with a honeycomb shaped rubber stamp. If you look closely, you can see where the pattern repeats on "natural looking" stamped slabs.

Personally, I can't stand asphalt. I hate how hot it is, how it smells in the heat, etc. It gives me a headache. When I think of KD, I think of the smell of asphalt...it's one of the reasons I avoid the place.

If anyone, for some strange reason, is interested in the process of pouring exposed concrete, just ask, and I'll explain it.
 
As a civil engineer, I will add to Doc's comments.

Concrete has a longer service life. Concrete is more durable and is less resistant to wear. Asphalt is a flexible pavement and needs constant kneeding to keep it pliable. Pedestrian traffic just doesn't provide the necessary action. Asphalt also needs sealing to keep moisture out. Asphalt is somewhat pourous and water can get down inside and then freeze. That creates potholes, and we've all experienced those.

Doc, just to let know, the cost of stamped concrete has come way down in recent years. Stamping technologies and patterns have grown immensly in the past 7 years. We used it on several jobs in New Kent instead of exposed aggregate.

Party Rocker, It's not good practice to place concrete on asphalt, especially if you want it to last past the first year. Concrete needs to have a stable base, usually compacted gravel. If the asphalt was left in place, we would see cracking at all the buildings, especially at the doorways. Concrete needs to be placed in no less than a 4" thickness to ensure a solid stable product. Anything less is subject to cracking.
 
Thanks guys for taking the time to explain all that. I used to work for a construction company and to be honest, I really didn't want to get into the details of concrete. I still have nightmares over processing invoices and handling insurance forms and what not. Kudos to you both!
 
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